Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Punctilios: Pick-Stitching

Look closely at the lapel of my latest Signature suit from Jos. A. Bank.  Not too closely.  See those dimples about 4mm from the edge, with about 3mm between them?  It's matched thread, and it runs the length of the lapel, and it's called pick-stitching.  Pick-stitching is only necessary on suits that are canvased (i.e., the padding between the fabric is actual canvas, which is more expensive than using fusible material, which does not require thread to hold the suit's faces together).

Fortunately for those of us on a budget, aesthetic, non-functional pick-stitching can be had on good-quality suits as well as top-quality suits.  The distinction isn't well known, so a crap suit with pick-stitching isn't worth the false economy.  But if you find a good-quality suit you like that aspires to real pick-stitching, so much the better.

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